Install Instructions for BA Comp, MLOK and Manners



1. Remove your chassis from your barreled action. OPTIONAL, without removing barreled action, you can usually get the MLOKS in there if you get them aligned properly, give it a try first.

2. Using the supplied MLOK fasteners and screws, install the Stabilator to your chassis.  Spacing and alignment is up to you.  Note the location of the MLOK holes in the above diagram.  They are easily identifiable as they have a larger hole chamfer to match the 10-24 MLOK screws. You might not use all of the supplied mounting holes, there are 7 on the Stabilator.  Your chassis may have 6 or less MLOK slots, ignore the excess holes.  

3. Do not over torque fasteners - max of 50 in/lbs.  Fasteners are #10-24 x 5/8 for reference.

4. Reinstall your barreled action and go have some fun!



1. Remove your chassis from your barreled action.

2. Remove your spigot from your chassis (if installed)

3. Install the dowel pins in the 2 pockets on the top of the Stabilator.  Ok to tap them in with a brass or plastic hammer if needed. Line up the Stabilator dowel pins with the holes in the center of the bottom of the chassis. The center rear of the Stabilator is designed to clear a factory MPA barricade stop so you will see that it sits almost 2" past the edge of the mag well.  The dowels will only line up in one position so when both dowels line up, you are good to go.

4. Snap the Stabilator in place, light tapping is ok.   Keep chassis and Stabilator in parallel alignment as you push in place, don't let it get cockeyed and try to force it.  If you have a lot of paint layered up in your chassis holes where the dowel pins go, you can clean that up with a 1/4" drill bit.  Stock factory paint finish will not interfere.

5. Locate the 4 silver blind nuts and the 4 long 8-32 screws in the hardware bag.  Insert the blind nuts from INSIDE the chassis and install the 4 screws from the bottom of the Stabilator.  You only need about 25 in/lbs to tighten these up (snug) do not over tighten or you will deform the blind nuts.  The dowels handle all of the forces and the screws just keep the Stabilator secure.  Do NOT lock tight.  You can press on the top of the blind nut to hold it while you tighten it.  The blind nut has tiny ridges that grip the chassis surface.  If you over tighten it, the blind nut will spin.  Do not tighten any further, you are all set.

6. Reinstall the barreled action and go have some fun!  Please provide feedback.

INSTALLATION NOTES:  Here is some feedback from other customers that may be of help for you.

* Dowel pins.  As mentioned above, the pins need to be in perfect alignment, there is only about .001" clearance depending on the tolerance of those dowel pins. It is easiest to just rest the Stabilator on the chassis upside down and push down over the top of the pins at the same time.  If you have extra paint in there, see above step #4.  It is OK to gently tap the back of the plate with a rubber mallet as long as you alternate your tapping between the pin locations to keep the Stabilator flat (in the same plane) as the chassis.  Once installed, they are not going anywhere.  Check the holes in the chassis for damage as well.  I have seen this once on a very old beat up chassis.  Any rolled over edges on those holes that interfere with the dowel pin should be cleaned up first. 



This is pretty straightforward.  Line up the Stabilator and screw 1/4-20 cap screws into the Manners provided nutserts in the bottom of your chassis. Position can be adjusted slightly forward or back depending on the chassis model and what the slots provide you.

Pay attention to the screw length, the PRS1 and PRS2 use different lengths depending on the hole going from longest to shortest in order back to front.  This is designed to capture as much of the threaded insert as is available.  The TCS will use all the same screw length.  The screws are bagged separately to avoid confusion.

Verify no screw contact with your barrel, indicating you might have the screws in the wrong order.